Hi,
I am trying to use the builder installed alarm system with suretyDIY/alarm.com and needs some help/advice. The alarm was never activated. Checked all the doors and windows and all have sensors hardwired, but those are installed into only 5 zones.
The managed to pick the lock to the cabinet and found that alarm board is a NetworX NX-6V2 and key panels look same as the Concord 4, but can’t be sure since there are no other marking on it other than “GE”. There are two key panels.
Questions.
Will this work with suretyDIY/alarm.com? If so, which cellular module do I need to purchase?
Doing a quick search, the system may require an installer’s code. If needed, any way to reset to factory defaults to reset to factory codes?
I see that power wires were not connected, but the power wire and adapter is inside the metal box, along with the backup battery. However, I don’t see any power outlets anywhere near the metal box. The metal box is inside the closet. Any ideas has to a typical install of alarm system? Is the power outlet hidden somewhere?
There are only two key panels; one in the master and one at the garage entry door. Is there a way to add more key panels? Would be nice at the front door and the other garage entry door since two garage entry doors are located at the opposite ends of the house. Thanks for your help.
1. Will this work with suretyDIY/alarm.com? If so, which cellular module do I need to purchase?
As long as it is a V2 it should work with the Alarm.com NX-400-US-VZ. Older V1 versions would not be compatible.
2. Doing a quick search, the system may require an installer’s code. If needed, any way to reset to factory defaults to reset to factory codes?
If this is a new build and a new system, the code is very likely already the default code. Looks like that should be 9713. Any luck?
3. I see that power wires were not connected, but the power wire and adapter is inside the metal box, along with the backup battery. However, I don’t see any power outlets anywhere near the metal box. The metal box is inside the closet. Any ideas has to a typical install of alarm system? Is the power outlet hidden somewhere?
Location of power depends largely on where the panel is located. Typically the panel box will be placed in the basement near the main electric panel for a wired alarm system. If that is not the case, you could run a power cable down to the basement, which would be the most common location to plug in the transformer.
4. There are only two key panels; one in the master and one at the garage entry door. Is there a way to add more key panels? Would be nice at the front door and the other garage entry door since two garage entry doors are located at the opposite ends of the house. Thanks for your help.
NX-6V2 manual claims a max of 16 keypads, so you should be fine if you want to add a couple. If you are adding new keypads, look into the NX-148E-RF, which have built in wireless receivers for wireless sensors.
I finally got an electrician to come out to install an electrical outlet near the alarm panel.
While shopping for NX-400-US-VZ/AT, I noticed both are EOL’d products. Is there a new product that replaced these? Looks few online stores still carry these, but not sure how reputable these online stores are.
Those modules have zwave built-in. I currently use SmartThings and Echo/Alexa for home automation. Currently, the automation is only for lights and switches, but I plan to add garage door, door locks, sensors, smoke, etc. Do you recommend I get the NX-400-US-VZ or should I spend a little more get a 2GIG-GC3-345? Looks like I can use the TAKEOVER module to integrate the existing hardwired zones/sensors to the 2GIG panel. Also, I read that 2GIG can act as a secondary zwave controller, so I can keep my current SmartThings automation. Can NX-400-US-VZ’s zwave be integrated into my current setup?
For either option above, will my existing keypads still work? How about the hardwired siren?
I currently use SmartThings and Echo/Alexa for home automation.
Do you recommend I get the NX-400-US-VZ or should I spend a little more get a 2GIG-GC3-345? Looks like I can use the TAKEOVER module to integrate the existing hardwired zones/sensors to the 2GIG panel. Also, I read that 2GIG can act as a secondary zwave controller, so I can keep my current SmartThings automation. Can NX-400-US-VZ’s zwave be integrated into my current setup?
If you plan to expand the Z-wave automation devices, a newer GC3 panel is probably going to be a better fit. There are a number of benefits, not the least of which is a visual menu and touchscreen interface which makes the process a lot smoother and provides easier to read feedback.
The TAKE-345 can be used (or multiple, if you have more than 8 zones) to convert existing wired zones into wireless signals to the GC3. This video goes over the installation steps for the TAKE-345.
Existing NX keypads could not be used with the GC3. If you need additional keypads the SP2 or SP1 secondary keypads could be used.
The hardwired siren can typically be used, and depending on its power requirements could be wired to the bell output on the GC3 terminal block, or powered separately via a third party relay, and use the GC3 bell or open collector outputs to trigger the relay. Instructions on connecting a sounder are found on page 26 in the manual.
The NX-400-US-AT and NX-410-US-VZ (LTE) are both active products sold to vendors through Alarm.com. I’ll double check the AT&T HSPA, but I do not believe there is a replacement yet.
If you just install a Networx Alarm.com module you would just be using the system as-is, so you would use all the existing keypads, etc.
I just signed up at suretydiy.com, but do I have to create an account as alarm.com as well?
I was able to get the alarm panel to arm and disarm. However, the zone 1 (front entry) is always lit. When I disarm, zone 1 flashes and prevents the alarm from entering the “ready” state. I have to bypass zone 1 each time and then the “ready” light comes on. Any ideas why this is happening?
I just signed up at suretydiy.com, but do I have to create an account as alarm.com as well?
If you have just purchased a subscription, your order will be processed by our team. We create the Alarm.com account/monitoring if applicable, and you will receive a welcome email with details on your account and instructions to connect your panel to the cellular service once your order has been processed.
However, the zone 1 (front entry) is always lit. When I disarm, zone 1 flashes and prevents the alarm from entering the “ready” state. I have to bypass zone 1 each time and then the “ready” light comes on. Any ideas why this is happening?
This indicates that Zone 1 is open. Is it a wired sensor zone? Which sensor(s) is on Zone 1? There are a number of possibilities but first you would want to verify which sensor it is.
Thanks Jason. Looks like my account is already setup.
It’s a wired sensor. I compared the front door sensor and I see a round sensor on the door frame, but I don’t see one inside the door itself. I might be they forgot to install it? I thought the door side of the sensor is either just a magnet or metal, so I tried taping a magnet and a metal piece to the sensor on the frame, but it doesn’t make any difference.
UPDATE: I taped a bigger magnet against the sensor in the door frame and zone 1 works, so the installer forgot to install the magnet. Question: Can I still just any brand? I see a $5.95 GE 3/8" sensor on Amazon. I can just use the magnet from the set.
Also, I have two interior doors leading to the two garages which are not hard wired. Which wireless sensors do I need to purchase to add sensors to those doors? I am thinking I might need a recessed sensor due to the door frame molding which will prevent the two sensors from aligning correctly when the doors are closed. I see two on your website. Also, which motion sensors and image sensors?
Will the 2GIG door, motion, and image sensors work with my setup? Just in case later I need to upgrade to a 2GIG panel. You mentioned that zwave inside this wireless module may not work very well my ST/Alexa home automation.
It’s a wired sensor. I compared the front door sensor and I see a round sensor on the door frame, but I don’t see one inside the door itself. I might be they forgot to install it? I thought the door side of the sensor is either just a magnet or metal, so I tried taping a magnet and a metal piece to the sensor on the frame, but it doesn’t make any difference.
If this sensor is on the handle side of the door it would be a magnetic sensor, and that may be the issue. If it is on the hinge side of the door it should be a plunger sensor which does not require a magnet.
If there are any questions about what type of sensor is installed or whether or not it is installed properly, please post a photo of the sensor as it is installed and we would be happy to help!
Also, I have two interior doors leading to the two garages which are not hard wired. Which wireless sensors do I need to purchase to add sensors to those doors? I am thinking I might need a recessed sensor due to the door frame molding which will prevent the two sensors from aligning correctly when the doors are closed. I see two on your website. Also, which motion sensors and image sensors?
Interlogix Networx panels would utilize GE wireless sensors, however you would want to verify that your panel supports wireless sensors. A keypad with built in RF (like the NX-148E-RF mentioned originally) or a dedicated wireless receiver would be required. The NX does not have built in wireless.
If you have a wireless receiver the door sensors we sell which would be compatible are the RE101 and RE122. For recessed, this would be the one to use.
Image Sensors are not compatible with the NX panels at this time. Ge 319.5 wireless Motion detectors would work, like the RE110P (provided you have a wireless receiver)
Will the 2GIG door, motion, and image sensors work with my setup? Just in case later I need to upgrade to a 2GIG panel. You mentioned that zwave inside this wireless module may not work very well my ST/Alexa home automation.
No, 2GIG Sensors would not be directly compatible with the NX panel and could only be used along with a wireless translator as they are 345Mhz sensors.
UPDATE: I taped a bigger magnet against the sensor in the door frame and zone 1 works, so the installer forgot to install the magnet. Question: Can I still just any brand? I see a $5.95 GE 3/8″ sensor on Amazon. I can just use the magnet from the set.
Yes, if you have a 3/8" sensor in the frame, any 3/8" recessed sensor magnet should be fine.
I thought the NX-148E-RF was wireless keypad that communicates via wireless with the NX-6V2 control panel. Reading the install manual, looks like it still needs to be connected by wire to the NX-6V2 control panel. So, this would mean replacing one of the existing keypads (NX-1324) with NX-148E-RF keypad. Which means, I can’t add a keypad at the front entry without running new wires from the NX-6V2 panel. Is my understanding correct?
Can you point me to where the NX-148E-RF is located in your Store? I don’t see it.
So, this would mean replacing one of the existing keypads (NX-1324) with NX-148E-RF keypad.
Correct, that would be the easiest way.
Which means, I can’t add a keypad at the front entry without running new wires from the NX-6V2 panel. Is my understanding correct?
Correct, the RF Keypad acts as a wireless sensor receiver, but itself is not wirelessly communicating with the panel. It must be connected to the panel bus as other keypads would be.
In alarm.com’s website, under “Setting -> Devices -> Devices” menu, I don’t see any sensors. Are hardwired door and windows not considered as sensors? Or is this something I need to configure using the alarm keypad?
The NX is a little different when it comes to zones. Do you know the highest zone number used at the panel? What zone number do they start at in programming?
The installer wrote the following inside the alarm panel door.
Entry doors (Not working currently since the magnet is missing in the door, but I have ordered one will be installed this week)
Null
Dining, Study
Family, breakfast, backdoor
Upstairs
Master
In addition to the above hardwired zones, I’ll be ordering the wireless sensors for garage entry doors and motion sensors once I’m hardwired zones are working properly. Thanks.
Interesting. We are not seeing equipment populate, which likely indicates that programming lockout is enabled. This must be disabled. Doing so requires the use of the DL900 downloader software from Interlogix. You should be able to have your installer do this if they commonly install these.
Location 21, Segment 1, Bits 5, 6, and 7 must be disabled.
I’ve read the other post and verified that Location 21, Segment 1, Bits 5, 6, and 7 are disabled. After that, From that other post, there was an suggestion to trigger the highest zone (Zone 6, master bedroom), so I did that. After triggering the alarm, logged into alarm.com and I was able to see all the zone. I’ve named each of the zones and called the customer service to verify that alarm was triggered. However, the customer service doesn’t see any alarm triggers today and requested that I post the support here.
The alarm.com “activity” page does show all the activities correctly, however. Is this because I am in test mode? Thanks.