Will be long, sorry. I am having two issues. I tried to call Qolsys but they would only talk to dealers.
First, I have sensors and automation set up but I just bought a straight wiFI thermostat (which is connected to a Harmony Ultimate and has a phone ap). I bought a Smartthings on a whim but realized that my IQ Panel 2 doesn’t play nice with it and it was more complicated than it was worth just to add a thermostat. Someone mentioned to me that Qolsys is working on an update that would control wiFI devices too but I cannot confirm. Basically, I just want to see if buying a controller just for a thermostat is worth it and if so, which one would connect the Harmony/Thermostat. (if all I get is on/off on Harmony, I may pass all together).
Second. I bought GE Z Wave Toggle On/Off switches for 2 light switches in the house. Because they are not for a light fixture and only a wall outlet, there are only Hot, Neutral and ground whereas a light fixture has the second black wire. I just want to control the outlet the switch controls. Does this work?
What model of thermostat is it?
In general, no, wifi automation devices are not supported by any Alarm.com compatible panel. For thermostat compatible with Alarm.com, you would want a Z-wave model, or the Nest is compatible with Alarm.com’s back-end. (The Nest does not connect to a panel)
Since this does not appear to be related to a suretyDIY subscription, I cannot say what features you have access to.
I would not recommend another controller hub for one device. I would just replace the thermostat. I’ve not heard any plans regarding expanding automation to wifi thermostats with the IQ Panel 2.
Because they are not for a light fixture and only a wall outlet, there are only Hot, Neutral and ground whereas a light fixture has the second black wire. I just want to control the outlet the switch controls. Does this work?
A switch controlling a receptacle would have the exact same wiring configuration as a switch controlling a standard light fixture, it would only depend on how many switches can control the load.
If there is any confusion, please post a photo of the wiring. If a switch controls a receptacle, it is passing power to that receptacle via one of the wires. A standard switch would not have a neutral wire connected to it, which may be where the confusion lies. Neutral will be bundled together in the back of the gang box.
If you are unsure about the wiring at all, I would recommend contacting an electrician for assistance.
Keep in mind you could instead use a Z-wave receptacle.
It’s not but I appreciate the help. I thought that connecting the Harmony, which connects to the thermostat would be “neat” but I only thought it would be worth it if it was easy but I agree about just buying a thermostat. The thermostat is a Honeywell 7 day WiFi. Is there a recommended one that plays the nicest with the IQ Panel?
On the switch, I just wanted to be sure. I read so many “wire it exactly as listed” that with no line/black running to a light fixture; I didn’t want to waste time. There is a black, white and ground on the gang box, standard plug.
Even though I am not a customer, I appreciate the help. Not too much out there, especially forums for support.
On one last note, can someone explain the Z-wave diagnostics on the panel? I have a general guess but not sure what the buttons do and what the point is. I got all yellow connection on that grid by finding the last successful path but I don’t really know what I am doing. User manual just references it but doesn’t explain it.
Is there a recommended one that plays the nicest with the IQ Panel?
According to Qolsys all devices compatible with the IQ Panel should be compatible with the Panel 2. This page is a great place to check for models that are compatible with the panel.
Even though I am not a customer, I appreciate the help. Not too much out there, especially forums for support.
Not a problem! We’re always happy to help!
can someone explain the Z-wave diagnostics on the panel? I have a general guess but not sure what the buttons do and what the point is. I got all yellow connection on that grid by finding the last successful path but I don’t really know what I am doing. User manual just references it but doesn’t explain it.
One place where the IQ Panel really shines is the additional Z-wave network diagnostics. Rediscover Network is standard and should be used after adding a new device or moving devices to a new location to remap routes.
Neighbor Info gives you which nodes are within communication distance of each device.
Counters gives a count of commands and statuses that were successful/failed since installation or since the last time counters were reset. This lets you get an idea of how often failures occur.
Diagnostics shows the anticipated communication routes for devices, let’s you check if a failed device occurs what the last route was and help determine where exactly commands get hung up.
As an FYI, the switch that powers the outlet didn’t work. I attached a diagram…when the switch is turned on, it completes the circuit to the outlet/plug. The wires shown are the only ones in the gang box so there is no other possible connections if the GE switch requires a neutral and the outlet also has include the neutral to complete the circuit. (without re-wiring of course)
There is a lamp module there that works but the wife wants a physical switch…because automation is stupid (in wife voice) 
The actual outlets don’t work with the current face plates that are in the rest of the house. Sounds stupid, but thems the breaks.
This ins’t my first time in an electrical box but I am not an electrician. I assume wiring suggestions are not licensed information but if anyone has any suggestions, I am all ears
If that is all that is in the box and I am understanding, that means they’ve used the white wire to pass power to the receptacle. There is no getting around the neutral requirement if a switch needs it.
This post goes over possible switches that do not require neutral.
That’s what I thought as well. Thanks again.
I found a dimmer and bought it. Do you know of any toggle type switches that don’t require a neutral? Like the GE ones that look like a light switch?
The only ones I am aware of are discussed here.
Manufacturers typically no longer make Z-wave switches that do not require neutral.
Z-wave switches which do not require neutral can only operate incandescent lights and I do not think would be very good for a receptacle, depending on what you have plugged in.
Something to note is that Z-wave switches which do not require a neutral remain powered by always allowing a bit of power to pass through when turned off. Incandescent lights can handle this because they require more power to light up, but CFL/LED will flicker or turn on at a dim level.
