Repurposing AT&T Digital Life Sensors/Accessories

I bought a house that had an AT&T Digital Life system installed. I of course have no intention of using AT&T’s overpriced service. What I would like to do is reuse the components that came with that system, especially the expensive ones like the touchpad door lock, cameras and CO detectors. What level of compatibility should I expect with a new system such as the ones sold on this site? I think the AT&T stuff is Z-Wave but I wouldn’t bet money on it. And will the home automation still work if the Internet is down, if you choose to add in the communication chip like on the 2gig system I was just looking at?

To add another wrinkle, this house had a Ranger American DSC wired system put in at build time. The attractive thing about wiring that in would be the physical window sensors that it offers. But the GC3 I put in my cart said it only offered 2 wireless zones? Is there a way around this? Some sort of physical to Z-wave bridge?

This forum is great, btw. I was looking for a home automation forum that actually got updated on a regular basis. I was thinking I would keep my alarm system separate from the home automation stuff but reading this forum and SuretyDIY prices have me thinking of making the alarm the home automation hub.

What level of compatibility should I expect with a new system such as the ones sold on this site?

If I recall correctly, their sensors all use Zigbee, which would not be compatible at all for use with any Alarm.com system.

Could you provide the model number of the devices you hope to reuse? We would be happy to provide more specific details once the model numbers are verified.

And will the home automation still work if the Internet is down, if you choose to add in the communication chip like on the 2gig system I was just looking at?

All Alarm.com systems require a cellular communication module. An account cannot be created without one. IP communication can be used as a concurrent back-up method, eliminating cellular latency but maintaining cellular reliability.

But the GC3 I put in my cart said it only offered 2 wireless zones? Is there a way around this? Some sort of physical to Z-wave bridge?

There are two wired zones in the terminal block yes, but these are not often used for wired sensors other than perhaps a motion detector supervising the panel.

You would want to use one or more 2GIG TAKE-345 if you wish to utilize existing wired sensors around the home. These turn wired sensors into wireless signals to the panel, and they support 8 zones each.

BTW, the alarm sensors do not use Z-wave. Z-wave is for automation only. Locks, lights, T-stats. Security and life safety sensors use a specific manufacturer protocol. The GC3 uses Honeywell/2GIG 345mhz RF sensors.

I was thinking I would keep my alarm system separate from the home automation stuff but reading this forum and SuretyDIY prices have me thinking of making the alarm the home automation hub

Probably a bad sales tactic but just wanted to say keep in mind that the GC3 does not yet have a very long list of officially tested and compatible Z-wave devices. While most will likely work without trouble, you may notice inconsistencies with devices which have not been stated to be officially compatible. We’ve been waiting for firmware to drop with the expectation of some added compatibility, but we do not have an ETA yet.

Just from Googling around it seems that the Digital Life boxes have 5 protocols in them, so no telling what the protocols that were in use on my system.

The biggest concern would be the Yale touchpad deadbolts, but even here if you look on their site there are versions that use Zwave and versions that use Zigbee and versions that use neither. Regardless, I would like the doorlocks to integrate with the alarm system…

http://www.yalehome.com/en/yale/yalehome/real-living/product-details/keypad/touchscreen/

The Take-345 sounds like it’s worth a try before going and buying RF sensors for the windows. Thanks.

Do the older models e.g., GC2, have better Z-wave compatibility?

It looks like the automation modules are interchangeable, so if my locks had Zigbee I could switch it out for Z-Wave.

http://www.yalehome.com/Yale/Yale%20US/Products/Real%20Living/Touchscreen%20deadbolt/Downloads/ZWave%20AYR200_ZW_INSTAL_FUL%20Rev%20B%20(11-14)%20WEB.pdf

http://www.yalehome.com/Yale/Yale%20US/Products/Real%20Living/Touchscreen%20deadbolt/Downloads/ZigBee%20AYR200_ZB_INSTAL_FUL%20Rev%20B%20(11-14)%20WEB.pdf

You would need to determine whether the lock is a Zigbee (incompatible) or Z-wave (compatible) version. An easy way to distinguish the two would be to open the back battery compartment. On Z-wave models there will be a removable Z-wave module above the batteries. Power down the device by removing the batteries, then remove the communication module. If it has a Z-wave logo on its sticker, you should be good.

Do the older models e.g., GC2, have better Z-wave compatibility?

Yes. The GC2 has a wider range of compatible devices at this time. It has the benefit of being on the market for years and numerous firmware revisions.

It looks like the automation modules are interchangeable, so if my locks had Zigbee I could switch it out for Z-Wave.

Yep, that would be the next step if you have a Zigbee version. I do believe they can just be swapped.

Ok, getting ready to move forward with GC3. At this time I’m not planning on repurposing anything from the AT&T system, but thank you for answering my prior questions.

Do you sell the Z-Wave modules for these locks? I had to replace the batteries in one of the locks, so I got a chance to take a peek. The module in there now just says AT&T rather than a specific protocol. I’m just going to replace it with Z-Wave.

I’m thinking this house had AT&T thermostats as well. Which model works best with GC3, or should I get a smart hub if I’m going to add a number of accessories?

I already have the GC3 w/AT&T sled in my cart, the Internet gateway, and 2 take over modules. I would like to also have thermostat control and some smart switches, the in wall variety - I am comfortable working with electricity. I might get an echo dot later.

Assume a $1000 budget to start with. I want cameras right off the bat. I assume that if you have cameras, you don’t need motion sensors. Glass break sensor. The door modules. I will hook the existing window sensors to the take-over modules.

Anything else I should be thinking of for the initial security system setup?

Do you sell the Z-Wave modules for these locks? I had to replace the batteries in one of the locks, so I got a chance to take a peek. The module in there now just says AT&T rather than a specific protocol. I’m just going to replace it with Z-Wave.

No, we do not sell the Z-wave modules. It may be good to reach out to the lock manufacturer’s support to see if they can refer you to the right place for these parts.

Which model works best with GC3, or should I get a smart hub if I’m going to add a number of accessories?

The GC3 with firmware 3.0.1 supports the ADCT2000. We typically recommend this model as it is an Alarm.com product and will generally see more feature roll-outs, etc.

Users have reported various levels of success with using the secondary controller Z-wave integration with a GC3. This is a universal, more or less, feature of Z-wave, but no manufacturer really officially supports it, so there can be a bit of trial and error. Do you know the hub you are looking at possibly adding?

I already have the GC3 w/AT&T sled in my cart, the Internet gateway, and 2 take over modules. I would like to also have thermostat control and some smart switches, the in wall variety – I am comfortable working with electricity. I might get an echo dot later.

By Internet Gateway, do you mean the Go!Bridge? The Go!Bridge is only for use with the Go!Control (GC2) not the GC3.

As far as switches go, pretty much any Z-wave switch should work, given that they rarely have any sort of communication differences between them. Echo is back-end linked with Alarm.com and not affected by panel choice.

I want cameras right off the bat. I assume that if you have cameras, you don’t need motion sensors. Glass break sensor. The door modules. I will hook the existing window sensors to the take-over modules.

Anything else I should be thinking of for the initial security system setup?

Cameras and motion detectors do not do the same thing, no. You cannot and would not want to initiate panel alarms based on Video Motion Detection. VMD is not intended for that purpose. It is used to trigger camera clip recordings. Recordings can also be triggered by alarm sensors.

To trigger alarms at the panel by way of motion, PIR motion detectors like the PIR1-345 or Image Sensor would be needed.

2GIG-TAKE-345’s support up to 8 zones each, and yes multiple can be used if you have more than 8 wired zones.

I don’t really care for the design of the ADCT2000, it’s not so pretty. But if that’s what works best, then I think I can live with it. I don’t want problems and I don’t want to have to use a bunch of different apps to control my stuff.

No, I don’t have an agenda on which controller I would want to get. Preferably whichever one works best with GC3. I probably will not get any controller in the beginning, just things that are known to be compatible with GC3 and/or Alarm.com.

Maybe just using the Alarm.com integration with Echo/Dot would be enough to where I didn’t have to get a hub? They have a lot of skillsets built in the backend Amazon cloud. I am a Prime member. Of course, the core alarm functionality would go through the sled regardless.

Regarding GoBridge, does the GC3 have WiFi built in? Is that the reason it doesn’t need GoBridge?

I have cats, so the PIR1-345 won’t work. 2Gig-Image1 instead?

I think I will possibly need 3 TAKE-345s. I have 20 windows and 3 exterior doors.

I think I will possibly need 3 TAKE-345s. I have 20 windows and 3 exterior doors.

Backing up to the original post, do you currently have wireless sensors? The system you mentioned as being currently installed uses as far as I know zigbee wireless sensors. You cannot use a TAKE-345 for this. The TAKE-345 is for hardwired zones. It takes 8 hardwired zones and turns them into wireless 345mhz sensor zones.

Do you have hardwired sensors on the windows and doors?

Regarding GoBridge, does the GC3 have WiFi built in? Is that the reason it doesn’t need GoBridge?

The GC3 has a wifi adapter hardware built in but firmware has not yet enabled it. The Go!Bridge is not compatible with the GC3.

I have cats, so the PIR1-345 won’t work. 2Gig-Image1 instead?

The Image Sensor, just like the PIR1-345, is a PIR motion detector and will suffer the same false alarm concerns if cats are able to jump on furniture in its field of view. With cats the best thing to do is keep furniture cats may jump on out of the field of view of the detector.

You can always test the sensor placement by programming a motion detector as a type (23) No Response Type zone and set up notifications in Alarm.com for it. That way it never sets off an alarm, but you can monitor if the cat sets it off over a span of time when there is otherwise no activity.

The house was hard-wired with a DSC system at time of build. There is a box with physical cables and control unit in my master closet. Those are the cables that will be used with the Take-345, not wireless sensors.

I have no idea what sensors the AT&T system used, if any. I’ve abandoned any pretense of using the AT&T system except for the Yale doorlocks which have replaceable communication units, and cables - there is a Cat5 going to a wireless camera above the front door. The camera I assume will not be re-usable but the cable will. I have the tools to make and punch down Ethernet cables/jacks.

Regarding the cats, I went with a glassbreak sensor at my old house rather than a motion detector. Maybe should do that again.

The house was hard-wired with a DSC system at time of build. There is a box with physical cables and control unit in my master closet.

Gotcha, yes, and if you have 20+ zones TAKE-345s will be remarkably more cost effective. Keep in mind that not all sensors may be wired as an individual zone. Typical wired systems will employ about 8 zones, with multiple windows wired in series on the same zone.

You’ll want to verify the number of individual hardwired zones in the panel box. If you need assistance feel free to post photos of the internals of the DSC box and any zone expanders.

The camera I assume will not be re-usable but the cable will. I have the tools to make and punch down Ethernet cables/jacks.

Only Alarm.com cameras would be compatible, but yes you can reuse cabling.

Regarding the cats, I went with a glassbreak sensor at my old house rather than a motion detector. Maybe should do that again.

If all the windows are already monitored with individual open/close sensors, a few glass break detectors may indeed be better to use than a motion detector if you have active cats. This will be determined by layout.

Jason,

I found this thread and was hopeful you may able to help me out with my situation. I have just moved into a house with att digital life. My controller (SR-KPD02) keeps reading communication error and will not let me arm/disarm system. I have the arm/disarm code as the previous owner has left this with me. I spoke with att and they did not want to help me unless I signed up for their monitoring service. I was hoping that you may have advice or recommend a product that will enable me to utilize all the equipment I already have in my house without paying a monthly service fee. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

I spoke with att and they did not want to help me unless I signed up for their monitoring service. I was hoping that you may have advice or recommend a product that will enable me to utilize all the equipment I already have in my house without paying a monthly service fee

Just to preface, we cannot provide support for the system you reference. suretyDIY is an Alarm.com service provider. We do not use those products you mentioned.

Now that said, I believe based on limited experience that they utilize zigbee wireless protocol (915 MHz) or 433 MHz for their sensor devices. The first thing to do is to verify the model numbers of the sensors and any automation devices. You can look for information then on what wireless frequency they use and find an appropriate automation hub that can use them if possible. The wireless frequency may be posted on a product sticker.

Note that the model number you mentioned, SR-KPD02, is just a keypad for the system. There would be a DLC-100 controller somewhere which is the brains of the system.

If 433 MHz, they may be DSC compatible.
If they are zigbee, an automation hub which uses a zigbee radio could probably be used.

I am a AT&T Digital Life Technician. The Yale Door Lock is Z-wave, not zigbee. Ask about any equipment and I will tell you whether it is zwave 915, 433, or wifi. The only

I have an AT&T Digital Life system and am moving to a Samsung Smart Hub. I was able to move my Yale lock to the SS Hub, but wondering if I can use the door/window and glass break sensors with the SS Hub??

Appreciate the help!

I have an AT&T Digital Life system and am moving to a Samsung Smart Hub. I was able to move my Yale lock to the SS Hub, but wondering if I can use the door/window and glass break sensors with the SS Hub??

Appreciate the help!

To clarify, suretyDIY is an Alarm.com service provider. This is a technical support forum for Alarm.com products and services. We can assist with determining what equipment can be used with an Alarm.com alarm system, but we do not provide support for non-Alarm.com compatible control systems.

It may be best to contact the product manufacturer of the hub for info.

Hey MHavoc,

I also have an old Digital Life system that I no longer pay for the service on. I am a former AT&T employee.

I have the Yale doorlocks, my question is…do the Yale doorlocks utilize a special proprietary Z wave protocol that only works with the digital life controller? Or can they be reprogrammed to use a smart home hub? It sounds like someone on here was able to get their Yale lock to work with a smart home bridge, but I have not been able to get mine to connect (by following the unpair, pair instructions found on the manufactures instructions)

Scubasteve,

Can you talk about the process you used to pair your Yale lock to your SS Hub? I also have a former Digital Life Yale door lock and haven’t been able to get it to pair successfully. I’ve tried using the Samsung Smart Thing bridge as well as my Echo Plus home controller.

I believe I tried, the PIN Code + # , followed by 7# , followed by 1# …but nothing, the smart hub won’t find it

To unpair your Yale lock you need to first Unpair it. Do this by unpairing on the lock itself.
Begin with the device locked. If needed for touchscreen models, place your palm on the screen to wake it up
Enter the 4-to-8-digit Master PIN code followed by the # or gear key
Press 7 followed by the # or gear key
Press 3 followed by the # or gear key

Then put it in pairing mode:
Begin with the device locked. If needed for touchscreen models, place your palm on the screen to wake it up
Enter the 4-to-8-digit Master PIN code followed by the # or gear key
Press 7 followed by the # or gear key
Press 1 followed by the # or gear key

You will know if it’s in pairing mode if when you touch the 1 the lock beeps.